Eyelashes and Eyebrows. Here’s What You Need to Know: Structure, Life Cycle, Growth Phases.

A professional lashmaker should know not only how to apply eyelash extensions but also their structure, functions, and growth cycle.

The obsession with thick and voluminous lashes dates back to ancient Egypt. Fortunately, today there are many ways to get the lashes you dream of, and treatments like lamination and eyelash extensions are extremely popular and trendy.

These treatments ARE NOT harmful to lashes and eyebrows: however, it is always best to rely on qualified personnel who know the products and procedures well.

The main function of eyelashes

is to protect our eyes from sand, dust, large amounts of water, etc. Eyelashes and eyebrows are the strongest hairs; in fact, 97% of eyelashes consist of protein and only 3% of water.

Unlike hair, eyelashes stop growing at a certain length. Parameters such as length, density, thickness, color, and even the curvature of eyelashes (straight or curled) are genetically determined. For example, brunettes have longer lashes than natural blondes. The thinnest lashes are considered to be among Europeans, and the thickest and stiffest among Mongoloids.

The more melanin pigment in the structure of the lashes, the darker they are, and vice versa. The color of lashes and hair can differ, but not by more than a few shades. Usually, they are dark in people with dark hair and, conversely, light in people with blonde hair.

Structure of eyelashes

Eyelashes consist of a root (under the skin) and a hair (the visible part of the lashes). The root (or bulb) is located at a depth of about 2 mm. This is where the growth of new lashes occurs.

The bulb is surrounded by a follicle, at the bottom of which the dermal papilla penetrates. Through it, the lashes receive nourishment and oxygen. A bundle of smooth muscles is attached to the bulb, whose task is to raise/lower the hairs. Closer to the skin surface, there are 2-3 sebaceous glands to lubricate the lashes.

• The medulla is a part of the eyelash visible to the human eye. In cross-section, you can see the core, the cortical layer, and the cuticle.

• Core - a substance made of keratin (a protein substance).

• The cortex covers 90% of the hair area. It consists of keratinized cells that provide strength.

• Cuticle - 5-10 thin layers of cells that cover the hair like tiles. It is the cuticle that protects the lashes from harmful effects and also gives them strength.

Human eyelashes grow in the wrong rows

• on the upper eyelid - in 2 to 4 rows, the number of lashes is about 150-250. Their average length is 7-12 mm.

• on the lower eyelid - in 1 to 2 rows, there are about 75-100 lashes, with an average length of 6-8 mm.

The eyelash life cycle is divided into 4 phases:

Anagen is the active growth phase of a new hair follicle, lasting on average 30 days. The average growth rate of eyelashes is from 0.12 to 0.14 mm per day.

Catagen is a short transition phase. At this time, the hair follicle shrinks. The average duration of this phase is 15 days.

Telogen - the follicle enters the resting phase. The duration is about 100 days. The phase ends at the time of eyelash loss (shedding phase).

Early anagen is the maturation phase of the root of a new eyelash. The old eyelash falls out when the root of the new eyelash is already beginning to mature.

In a healthy person, 85% of the hair on the head is in the growth phase. But eyelashes and eyebrows have a shorter growth phase, so they spend most of their "life" in the resting phase.

The lifespan of eyelashes ranges from 70 to 160 days. Eyelash renewal occurs within 7-9 weeks, which significantly affects the duration of eyelash extensions.

The exceptions will be:

- Physical damage to the eyelid.

-Hyper- and hypothyroidism: thyroid problems can cause hair and hair loss.

- Blepharitis: acute or chronic inflammation affecting the eyelids, causing itching, burning, and possible eyelash loss.

For this reason, it is important to know and understand the eyelash life cycle before resorting to expensive procedures or diagnosing yourself as "unsuitable for extension and/or lamination treatment."

Lashes will grow back, even if they are pulled out, but it will take longer than if they fell out naturally.

It is recommended to remove eyelash extensions very carefully by contacting a qualified lashmaker.

DID YOU KNOW?

1. Only mammals have eyelashes.
2. The animal with the longest eyelashes in the world is the camel. They can reach 10 cm in length; long lashes help these animals protect their eyes from sand and wind during sandstorms in the desert.
3. In 2021 You Jianxia set a new world record, with eyelashes reaching as long as 20.5 cm!
4. Taking medication can affect eyelash growth and the duration of eyelash extensions.